- The Series resistor:
A 100ohm series resistor needs to be added between the output buffer transistor Q9 and C32. You can easily do this by de-soldering the positive leg of C32 and attaching one side of a 100ohm resistor to the leg, and the other side of the resistor to the board.
- The shunt resistor:
R52 needs to be changed from 100k to 10k. In the previous picture you can see where I messed up by tearing the R52 track. Instead Bajaman soldered a resistor to the back of the PCB as shown here:
Diode Mods:
Bajaman also removed SMD D2 diode combo and replaced with a triangular arrangement of normal diodes (1 silicon diode going one direction and 1 silicon + 1 germanium going the other). The good old goop to the rescue held it in place nicely. Afterward I added a switch to short the germanium diode to return it to stock setting.
Installing the switch:
Not much room for a switch, but I managed to squeeze one in. It was a tight squeeze between the input jack and the gain pot:
A 100ohm series resistor needs to be added between the output buffer transistor Q9 and C32. You can easily do this by de-soldering the positive leg of C32 and attaching one side of a 100ohm resistor to the leg, and the other side of the resistor to the board.
- The shunt resistor:
R52 needs to be changed from 100k to 10k. In the previous picture you can see where I messed up by tearing the R52 track. Instead Bajaman soldered a resistor to the back of the PCB as shown here:
Diode Mods:
Bajaman also removed SMD D2 diode combo and replaced with a triangular arrangement of normal diodes (1 silicon diode going one direction and 1 silicon + 1 germanium going the other). The good old goop to the rescue held it in place nicely. Afterward I added a switch to short the germanium diode to return it to stock setting.
Installing the switch:
Not much room for a switch, but I managed to squeeze one in. It was a tight squeeze between the input jack and the gain pot:
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